jevan23
03-13-2006, 10:16 PM
Finally, after working constantly on my 4th year project started in september, i am now done, and ahead of schedule!
Project consists of 3 units, a power unit(drives the microprocessor, sensor circuits, LCD display) contains solid state relays to drive a heater, a top off pump, and lighting(powers my 4 54W T5's), is capable of driving any device that needs 120V and suppling up to 400A of current(If the breaker can take it, that is).
The next unit is the display unit, which houses the microprocessor, LCD display, and connects to the power unit and sensor unit. Also on the display unit is a serial port which can be used to connect to a pc for configuration or to back up data. The lights run on a programmable digital clock with lithium backup, so in the event of a power failure, when the unit comes back online the lights do not need adjusting.
The sensor unit sits on the back of the aquarium or sump and measures the temperature, water level, and pH(with temperature compensation).
On a 10Gal aquarium, the controller is able to keep temperature to within 0.3 degrees of desired temperature at all times(only heating the water, no chiller functions were built into this prototype), measures and displays pH to within 0.03, and keeps the water level constant to within 3mm(measures water level 15 times and averages to compensate for waves, ect).The water level sensor induces no voltage into the water, and contains no mechanical device to fail or gum up.
Project consists of 3 units, a power unit(drives the microprocessor, sensor circuits, LCD display) contains solid state relays to drive a heater, a top off pump, and lighting(powers my 4 54W T5's), is capable of driving any device that needs 120V and suppling up to 400A of current(If the breaker can take it, that is).
The next unit is the display unit, which houses the microprocessor, LCD display, and connects to the power unit and sensor unit. Also on the display unit is a serial port which can be used to connect to a pc for configuration or to back up data. The lights run on a programmable digital clock with lithium backup, so in the event of a power failure, when the unit comes back online the lights do not need adjusting.
The sensor unit sits on the back of the aquarium or sump and measures the temperature, water level, and pH(with temperature compensation).
On a 10Gal aquarium, the controller is able to keep temperature to within 0.3 degrees of desired temperature at all times(only heating the water, no chiller functions were built into this prototype), measures and displays pH to within 0.03, and keeps the water level constant to within 3mm(measures water level 15 times and averages to compensate for waves, ect).The water level sensor induces no voltage into the water, and contains no mechanical device to fail or gum up.